I’ve baked a lot of rye breads over the years… if you look through the many rye recipes I’ve put on the blog, I’ve got classic Jewish rye, pumpkin pumpernickel, coffee-infused rye (today’s recipe also uses coffee!), Marmite-infused rye… even one with stout beer, cheddar cheese, and caramelized onion!
So, why have I been thinking about making this bread forever but kept putting off making it? For one thing, the mass‑produced swirl loaves at the supermarket are actually really good in my opinion (I’m looking at you Arnold and Pepperidge Farms, lol). But every time I sliced into one I’d think, “I should really make my own swirl one of these days.” Today’s recipe is my 100% scratch-made, no outside-influence answer to this ongoing itch, and if you make your own bread, I’m sure you already know this blows away anything at the supermarket, regardless of those compliments I just gave!
Swirl rye has been a staple in Jewish delis and German‑American bakeries for decades, a kind of hybrid loaf that marries light rye and dark pumpernickel into that iconic marbled pattern you might see with your Reuben or pastrami sandwich.
Once I stopped putting it off and finally tackled the swirl, I realized: it’s really not much extra work. Once you pull all the ingredients out, it’s not really a difference making two versus one dough. And the only other added step is shaping themn together — which turns out to be really fun and quick.
Once you stack the two “rectangles” of dough, and start rolling that tight log, it feels like you’re participating in a little bit of old‑school deli craft. Swirl loaves were originally a way for bakers to showcase contrast in flavor, color, and texture, and that same spirit is still there in today’s recipe.
This sourdough version keeps everything I love about a good deli rye: the aroma, the chew, the caraway and dill, the contrast between the dark pump interior and the lighter rye exterior. But it also adds the depth you get from sourdough fermentation, a rye scald (using hot coffee!), and a proper bake (with a curing step at the end, detailed in the instructions).
Whether you’re loading it up with corned beef, pastrami, chopped liver, turkey, making a Reuben (see above!), or just making toast, this homemade swirl rye hits all the nostalgic notes while tasting unmistakably fresh. I’ve made it several times now, adding some tweaks and improvements each time. Now it’s one of my favorite breads, and I think you’ll get hooked on it too.
Yield:
1 large loaf (1250–1350g), 12–16 slices
Equipment:
- Need a sourdough starter – this is not a yeast recipe
- optional: small pan or skillet (for toasting spices)
- coffee maker of choice (French press is a great option if you want to get really gourmet!)
- optional: mortar & pestle
- digital kitchen scale (Important! For accuracy, this recipe does not provide volume measurements)
- 2 large mixing bowls
- sturdy mixing spoon
- bench scraper
- optional: spray bottle with water
- razor or bread lame
- 10″ loaf pan (a standard loaf pan is 9″ which should still work; I just felt it would be a bit crowded and not allow for a full cold retard based on a premature bulge)
- oven mitts as needed
- digital thermometer
- elevated wire rack
Ingredients:
Dark Pumpernickel Dough
- spices to toast & grind (optional):
- 1/2 tsp caraway seeds
- 265g strong, hot coffee (medium or dark roast suggested)
- 100g coarse rye flour (I love this brand!)
- 275g bread flour (or AP flour)
- 10g salt
- 20g molasses (about 1.5 TBSP)
- 1/2 tsp black pepper
- 1 TBSP water
- 1/2 tsp Maggi liquid seasoning (or can sub w/ Dales Steak Seasoning)
- Rounded 1/8 tsp food‑grade charcoal powder
- 1 TBSP pure cocoa powder
- 1/2 tsp ground coriander
- 2 tsp neutral oil (e.g. avocado, sunflower)
- 100g active levain (added last, after cooling)
Light Rye Dough
- spices to toast & grind (optional):
- 1/2 tsp dill seeds
- 100g active levain
- 265g water
- 315g bread flour
- 60g coarse rye flour
- 10g salt
- 1 TBSP sugar (or 12g)
- 1/2 tsp mustard powder
- 1/2 tsp onion powder
- 1/2 tsp garlic powder
- (or choose one and use 1 tsp total)
- 2 tsp neutral oil (e.g. avocado, sunflower)
For Shaping & Baking
- extra flour for dusting
- 1 tsp neutral oil (for greasing loaf pan)
Preparing the levain:
My preferred method for sourdough bread is to make a levain – a side starter formed from a part of my main sourdough starter. In this recipe, it will be divided into two equal levains of 100g each, once ready. Start with: 50g sourdough starter (ideally already active), 100g water, and 100g bread flour. Combine evenly with a spoon or other tool in a quart mason jar or clear plastic container with a lid. Allow around 4-6 hours at room temperature for the levain to roughly double in volume. Since you started with 250g in all, there might be a bit extra when it’s time to weigh out each 100g levain, but since some of it is prone to sticking to the sides of your container, you should have exactly what you need.
Directions:
1. Toast & Grind Spices (optional but recommended)
- Heat a small pan or skillet over medium heat.
- Toast the caraway seeds first for 1–2 minutes, shaking frequently until fragrant.
- Transfer caraway to a mortar & pestle and grind coarsely.
- Toast the dill seeds next for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.
- Transfer dill to the mortar & pestle and grind coarsely.
- In the recipe below, they’re in two separate doughs. Alternate method: toast both spices together and divide evenly between the doughs.
2. Brew Coffee (pumpernickel dough prep step)
- In a large mixing bowl, pre‑measure 100g coarse rye flour.
- Brew 265g hot strong coffee to pour over the rye flour (don’t add the bread flour or starter at this point).
3. Mix Dark Pump Dough
- Pour the hot coffee over the rye flour and mix with a sturdy spoon.
- Add the molasses, caraway, black pepper, water, Maggi, charcoal, oil, cocoa, and coriander; mix with a strong spoon.
- Allow the mix to cool; it can be lukewarm but should not exceed 100F.
- When the temp is appropriate, stir in 100g active levain and incorporate fully.
- Allow to rest around ten minutes, then add the 275g bread flour and the salt. Mix together thoroughly first with the spoon, then using wet hands (reduces stickiness) as needed until the mix is a uniform color.
- Suggested: spritz evenly with a water bottle.
- Cover and set aside.
4. Mix Light Rye Dough
- Add 265g water to a large mixing bowl.
- Add 100g levain and mix briefly with a fork or whisk to disperse well.
- Add 315g bread flour + 60g rye flour and mix with spoon until shaggy.
- Add salt, ground dill, onion powder, garlic powder, sugar, oil, and mustard powder.
- Switch to wet hands and squeeze/fold until cohesive.
- Cover and rest 30 minutes. (Suggest spritzing with water first.)
5. Stretch & Fold Schedule
- Perform 4 rounds on each dough, every 30 minutes.
- Each round: 8–12 gentle stretches, pulling an edge/corner to the middle. Turn the dough 60-90 degrees before each pull, in order to build tension evenly.
- Rounds 3 & 4: after the stretches, finish with one coil fold (form one long log with the dough, and fold into thirds; essentially looks like a coil)
- Optional: lightly mist each dough with spray water bottle after each round.
- Keep doughs separate.
6. Bulk Fermentation
- After the series of stretch and folds, lightly mist (suggested), and continue fermenting, covered, for about 4 hours at 70–74°F (time will vary based on exact temps).
- Doughs should be puffy and increased by roughly 50–60%.
7. Pre‑Shape
- Lightly flour your work surface or countertop.
- Turn both doughs out at the same time, each onto its own floured area. Because rye doughs are so sticky, you may opt to add more flour than you might normally.
- Let both doughs rest for 10 minutes.
Light rye dough (base layer):
- Slide your bench scraper under the dough, moving it back and forth to push flour underneath so the dough can move freely and confirm nothing is sticking.
- Flip the dough over.
- Gently pull out each end of the dough into a rectangle.
Dark pump dough (inner layer):
- Slide your bench scraper under the dough, moving it back and forth to push flour underneath so the dough can move freely and confirm nothing is sticking.
- Flip the dough over.
- Gently pull out each end of the dough into a rectangle but keep it about 5% smaller than the light rye rectangle.
8. Rolling & Sealing the Swirl
- Gently place the pump dough rectangle centered on top of the light rye rectangle (use the bench scraper under the pumpernickel dough to help you).
- Press the edge closest to you so the doughs adhere.
- Roll away from you into a tight, even log.
- Seal the seam firmly by pinching the white rye edge onto the roll length-wise (see photo).
- Gently turn the dough over so the seam is face down, then tuck the sides of the light rye over the pumpernickel so that the dough is fully sealed. (The pumpernickel dough is fully encapsulated; the sides are covered with the lighter dough.)
9. Pan Prep & Final Proof
- Grease a 10″ loaf pan with about 1 tsp neutral oil.
- Transfer the log into the pan (again, can use the bench scraper to assist), seam side down.
- Proof 60–90 minutes until puffy and at or slightly above the rim. The height may be somewhat uneven, that’s okay.
- For a cold proof (cold retard): cover the pan with a kitchen towel and refrigerate 8 hours to overnight. Bake directly from cold the next morning.
- Before placing in the oven, score the loaf length-wise, trying to get deep enough to expose the dark pumpernickel dough.
10. Baking
- Preheat oven to 425°F for at least 30 minutes. When opening the oven, feel free to throw in a couple cups of ice for added steam, which will improve the rise.
- Bake 20 minutes at 425°F.
- Reduce to 375°F and continue baking 40 minutes more.
- At the 60-minute mark, check temperature, and continue baking if target internal temperature hasn’t been reached (205–210°F). Continue checking every 5-10 minutes depending on temp, until done.
11. Oven Cure
- This is an optional but recommended step.
- Turn off the oven.
- Open the oven door to the 3/4‑open stop position.
- Leave the loaf inside the oven, still in the pan, for 15-20 minutes.
12. Cooling
- Remove loaf from pan.
- Cool on an elevated wire rack for at least 2 hours.
- Slice only when fully cool (room temp). Waiting 3-4 hours is ideal.
Notes:
General Storage Notes
- Store in a closed paper bag once totally cooled.
- Keeps 5-6 days typically (older slices are best toasted).
- Avoid airtight containers.
Freezing Notes
- Slice the loaf before freezing.
- If eaten a slice at a time: place parchment paper between slices so individual pieces can be pulled out.
- Wrap tightly.
- Keeps well up to 3 months.
Matching Fermentation Speeds
Because the two doughs contain different ingredients and behave differently during fermentation, they may not rise at exactly the same speed. They do not need to look identical, and small differences are completely normal. Most of the time, both doughs will stay close enough in pace without any intervention.
If you do notice a clear mismatch — one dough rising significantly faster or relaxing much more than the other — you can gently bring them back into alignment:
- If one dough is lagging behind, place it on a heating pad set to LOW for 10–20 minutes at a time.
- If one dough is rising too quickly, place it in the refrigerator for 10–20 minutes.
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What an absolutely awesome piece of toast with butter! The second photo is another absolute savory favorite… butter, Marmite! and honey. Lastly, those Reubens just won’t quit!!
